012 Cafe Berlin
Tel Aviv recently reached an important milestone - a twin cities treaty was signed with none other than Berlin. The timing is meaningful - it coincides with the 60th anniversary of diplomatic relations between Germany and Israel, and also falls around the 80th anniversary of the liberation of Auschwitz. When news broke out, Tel Aviv’s Mayor Ron Huldai stressed that Berlin and Tel Aviv share common democratic values, including freedom and tolerance, while Berlin’s Mayor Kai Wegner said that he is committed to combat rising antisemitism, forever remembering that the Holocaust was orchestrated from his city.
Tel Aviv and Berlin sure have something special in common - both are creative islands of innovation surrounded by more traditional regions. In Tel Aviv, beach-goers start their morning with sunrise yoga on the Mediterranean shore, while just an hour's drive away, ancient Jerusalem awakens to the calls of prayer and religious study. Similarly, Berlin's club scene keeps pulsing until dawn in renovated industrial spaces, while Bavaria's traditional villages maintain centuries-old customs just a few hours south. Both cities somehow exist in their own cultural bubbles - progressive enclaves that dance to their own rhythm.
Having a shared ethos does not erase their differences, of course - Tel Aviv embraces its sunshine, with outdoor cafés spilling onto sidewalks year-round and a beach culture that defines the city's laid-back vibe. Berlin, meanwhile, has perfected the art of indoor coziness, with its legendary winter lasting what feels like eight months and locals opting for dimly lit bars, art spaces and underground clubs. One city bathes in Mediterranean light; the other nestled within the heart of continental Europe, yet somehow they share so much in common, pulling young dreamers from around the world and now finally formalizing their relationship.
I was thinking about this announcement while walking past what used to be Cafe Berlin on Nahalat Binyamin Street. Actually, this was my favourite hangout bar and restaurant until recently, when it changed owners and the name. I was thinking how both cities transformed themselves so dramatically over recent decades, reinventing their cosmopolitan identities while acknowledging their complex history. The irony wasn't lost on me - here I was, contemplating a new partnership with Berlin in a spot that once carried the German capital's name. Things change, places transform - much like the cities themselves.
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -
George & John Restaurant, nestled within the beautifully restored Drisco Hotel, offers the perfect culinary companion to my American-German Colony audio tour. Named after the original American brothers George and John Drisco who built the historic building in the 1860’s, this upscale restaurant continues their legacy of hospitality. After six years in which celebrity chef Tomer Tal led the restaurant to great achievements, even to have it included in the list of top fifty restaurants in the Middle East, a new chef duo is trying to preserve the local prestige while bringing in a fresh approach which gives more respect to raw ingredients over micro-fusion pyrotechnics.
Before your meal, you can immerse yourself in the fascinating story of the American-German Colony through my audio tour. Starting at the Gesher Theater, this 45-minute walking experience takes you through one of Jaffa's most beautifully preserved yet often overlooked neighborhoods. You'll discover how American settlers arrived in 1866 with dreams of salvation in the Holy Land, later to be replaced by German Templars who left their distinctive architectural mark on the area.
During this audio tour I'll guide you past the wooden-looking balconies that hint at the original timber homes built by the Americans, introducing you to characters like Rolla Floyd, one of the colony's first settlers. You'll see the houses that passed from American to German ownership, and visit Beit Immanuel Guesthouse, formerly Hôtel du Parc, where Kaiser Wilhelm II once stayed. The tour includes Jerusalem Boulevard, created from a fit of jealousy, Maine Friendship House, Norton House, and the neo-gothic Immanuel Church, all while telling stories of the devotion, love, and sometimes naivety that shaped this unique corner of Jaffa.
As you conclude the tour, you can take some time to explore the up-and-coming Noga neighborhood with its artisan galleries and workshops before returning to the Drisco Hotel. In the hotel's historical beer cellar, you can see restored wall drawings that date back to the original German settlers - a perfect visual complement to the stories you'll hear on the tour. Then head upstairs to George & John for a meal that brings the historical journey full circle, with flavors that echo the diverse cultures that have called this area home over the past 150 years.
You can make sure you've downloaded my Jaffa’s American-German Colony audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -
A Jaffa Tour: The Story of its American-German Colony
If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
June 2025 in Tel Aviv is shaping up to be an exceptional month packed with cultural highlights and seasonal transitions. The month kicks off with Shavuot on June 1st, one of Judaism's major holidays celebrating the wheat harvest and the giving of the Torah at Mount Sinai. Some cultural institutions will offer special programming on Sunday June 1st in the evening hours, as traditionally the eve of the holiday is celebrated with a night-long session of religious study. Apart from that, you can expect to see Tel Aviv's bakeries overflowing with cheese pastries and especially cheesecakes, as Shavuot is traditionally associated with dairy foods.
Sunday June 1st will be similar to an Israeli Friday, with stores closing by 4pm and public transit shutting down. Monday June 2nd will be similar to an Israeli Saturday, with all customs of Shabbat being observed, and even more so on this holiday going back to biblical times. Restaurants and cultural establishments that usually operate on Shabbat might be closed for Shavuot, so plan accordingly and book in advance so as not to find yourself without a place to eat on a day that sees less than usual open restaurants. Many Tel Avivians will hit the beach on that day to enjoy an extra day off work, probably using the locally operated free shuttles to get from the suburbs to the city’s seashore. Shavuot will come to a close in the evening hours after sunset, as official public transit will resume
June 13th marks one of Tel Aviv's most iconic annual events – the Pride Parade. Known globally as one of the world's largest and most vibrant Pride celebrations, the 2025 parade is expected to draw over 250,000 participants from Israel and abroad. The festivities begin at Meir Park with speeches and performances before the parade winds its way through central Tel Aviv, ultimately culminating in a massive beach party at Charles Clore Park. The entire city transforms into a rainbow-colored celebration with special events, parties, and shows taking place throughout the week leading up to the parade.
June 20th signals a significant transition in the city's rhythm as it marks the last day of the school year in Israel for students in middle school and high school. You'll notice the larger than usual number of teens in the city's cafés, beaches, and public spaces. Teenagers celebrating their newfound freedom in Tel Aviv is a sight going to last until the end of August.
The weekend of June 20th 2025 will also be a magnet for adults as the seventh edition of New Orleans Jazz Festival in Tel Aviv takes center stage at the Tel Aviv Museum of Art. This year's festival promises an extraordinary lineup of international talent alongside Israel's top jazz musicians, starting Thursday June 19th and closing Saturday June 21st. For culture lovers, this is actually a great opportunity to combine a Jazz performance with a visit to one of Israel’s best Art museums.
Located in the city's cultural complex, along with the Israeli Opera House and Tel Aviv’s central public library, the Tel Aviv Museum of Art houses one of the world's finest collections of Israeli art alongside impressive international holdings. The main building features a striking geometric design with its iconic "lightfall" - a nine storey high spiraling atrium that allows natural light to permeate from the glass ceiling all the way down to the main building’s basement, creating a kind of waterfall of light - a “lightfall”. Architecture enthusiasts will also appreciate the juxtaposition between the original 1970’s brutalist building and the new main building constructed in 2011. Also recommended is the sculpture garden next to the stylish cafeteria of the museum - a green space that allows for a sunbathing break between visits to the different exhibitions.
The museum's permanent collection spans multiple periods and movements, with the Israeli art section providing fascinating insights into the country's complex cultural identity. The permanent European collection, from Monet to Picasso, is also world-class and the museum also hosts dozens of temporary exhibitions annually, so I recommend to check in advance whether there’s something in particular you want to see in preparation for your visit.
For the optimal visitor experience, I recommend allowing at least two hours to explore the main galleries. Begin with the Israeli art collection on the second floor of the main building before moving to the international section. Audio guides are available in multiple languages, providing deeper insights into key works. Lastly, the museum shop is not your typical tourist trap - it’s actually much loved by the culturally oriented Israeli crowd, with carefully curated merchandise. It’s also a great place to look for souvenirs for your loved ones.
Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week. Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
