016 Coffee with Quentin
Tel Aviv's real estate market has recently welcomed a Hollywood star to its ranks - legendary director Quentin Tarantino. Married to Israeli singer Daniella Pick, the power couple symbolising the growing relationship between Israel and Hollywood purchased two adjacent plots of land in one of the city's northern neighborhoods. For hardcore Tel Avivians - the place is as far away from the city center, it might as well be in Los Angeles, but the couple seems to not really care what other people think. Their plan is to unify the two plots, demolish an existing structure and soon after they will build their new house, a home for themselves and their two young children.
Tarantino and Pick - daughter of Israeli music legend Svika Pick, and a singer in her own right - had been renting an apartment for their stays in Israel while searching for the right place to buy. Their hunt focused primarily on the neighborhoods across HaYarkon River - the more affluent areas of Tel Aviv, housing villas and mansions, some looking like they were taken from Sunset Boulevard.
I was reminded of how happy Tel Avivians were a few years ago, when photos of Tarantino sitting in coffee places in the city started popping up on social media. I specifically remember one witty remark: “Most everybody in this city will tell you that they’re working on a new screenplay”. Tarantino was paparazzied several times at Cafe Zorik in Tel Aviv, so if you’re aiming to chat up an award winning playwright and director, that’s your safest bet.
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -
Play Levontine Hotel offers a truly unique accommodation experience in one of Tel Aviv's most strategic locations, making it the perfect base for exploring my Gan HaHashmal audio tour. This striking boutique hotel stands out with its burlesque design, which theatre lovers will surely appreciate. Located on Levontine Street, you'll be just a short walk from the hustle and bustle of the city center. The building, formerly filled with offices, underwent a complete renovation that transformed it into a stunning 34-room boutique hotel spread across three floors.
From the moment you approach the hotel's graffiti-adorned entrance, you'll sense its distinctive character. Step inside and you’ll discover Parisian-style sofas and grand curtains. Pass through the pink corridors and you’ll hear soundtracks of musicals playing gently in the background. Each room is a surprise, specially designed with ornate beds and heavy red curtains.
The entrance level houses the "Gila & Nancy" restaurant by Israeli celebrity chef Eyal Shani. It is named after pioneering transgender activists in Tel Aviv and the delicious cuisine is sometimes accompanied with drag shows, making it one of its kind in Tel Aviv.
After enjoying the hotel's excellent breakfast service, you'll be perfectly positioned to begin my Gan HaHashmal audio tour just a short stroll away. This self-guided exploration takes you through a neighborhood that has witnessed remarkable transformation - from a luxury area constructed by the financial elite of 1920’s Tel Aviv, through decades of urban decay, to its current renaissance as one of the city's trendiest districts. As you walk these electrifying streets (the name Gan HaHashmal literally means "Electricity Garden"), you'll uncover the magnificent history behind the stylish buildings. On the way, you’ll also have the opportunity to visit Gan HaHashmal’s designer shops and fashionable cafés.
You can make sure you've downloaded my Gan HaHashmal audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -
The Electrifying Story of Gan HaHashmal and Its Architecture
If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
Summer in Tel Aviv is already upon us. The day after this episode airs, the internationally renowned Tel Aviv Pride Parade will take place. This is the climax of festival season in the city, which also ushers in the hot summer days. Springtime was ideal for holding festivals and spending time outdoors, but the soaring temperatures obligate us to be more calculated about our daily schedule.
A typical July day, temperatures range from an average high of 88°F (31°C) to an average low of 73°F (23°C), which isn’t unheard of, but it’s really the humidity that’s striking - the combination of about 70% relative humidity with consistently high temperatures make it an imperative to plan for indoors between 12pm and 3pm - some would even go as far as 11am to 4pm. Locals know that this is not merely a recommendation, but strict doctors’ orders to avoid dehydration and the negative effects of sun rays on the skin.
So, if you’re looking for indoor activities, museums are the best for culture and education, but it’s also possible to indulge in shopping, right? Tel Aviv does not lack indoor shopping malls, all of them air-conditioned and some offer special activities in July, when teenagers are looking for things to do during their break from school. Here’s a list of the four malls to go to when in Tel Aviv, cool retreats from the heat and humidity:
1) Dizengoff Center -
Opened in 1983 as the country's very first shopping mall, Dizengoff Center on Dizengoff Street is also considered the quirkiest in Israel. This isn't your typical sleek modern mall; It’s made up of two buildings on both sides of the main Street, connected by skywalks and underground tunnels, creating a labyrinth that even locals sometimes get lost in. When you navigate its maze-like corridors, you'll discover its architectural oddity - with floors seemingly going up and down in a spiral. They actually made a dedicated app to shoppers with wayfinding in Dizengoff Center - I put a link in the show notes to download the "Easy Dizi" app to help you find your path.
With over 400 stores spread across five floors, you'll find everything from international chains like Zara and Nike to Israeli chains, alongside unexpected finds like a Japanese comic book shop, a place selling military equipment and a store that looks like an enchanted forest which sells… Well, I’m not really sure. For some groups in Israel feeling marginalized, it’s a safe haven in which to meet up, making the mall into a sort of community center. The mall's most unique feature is the weekly food fair held every Thursday and Friday, where dozens of vendors serve up homestyle cooking from cuisines around the world.
2) Gan HaIr (now Gan Ofer) -
Recently renamed after its legendary manager, Gan Ofer is located right next to Rabin Square and the Tel Aviv Municipality. Locals still use its former name - Gan Hair (City Garden, in Hebrew) - which is a good thing to know if you’re asking for directions. The shopping center is a three-storey octagon-shaped half-open-air building, but all shops are air conditioned and you’ll also find a decorative pool and fountain in the middle of the food court, cooling off the open air section. Gan Ofer (meaning Ofer’s Garden) isn’t as big as traditional shopping malls. With only 100 shops, the place prides itself on its carefully curated selection.
3) TLV Fashion Mall -
Opened in 2021 on what used to be Tel Aviv’s wholesale market, TLV Fashion Mall is one of the newest additions to Israel’s shopping malls. Right from the start it was focused on fashion, so this is the place to go to find your next look. Prices range from basic attire at reasonable prices to ultra luxurious hot couture. The mall's design is purposely sleek and minimal, allowing the brands to take center stage, but here’s a bit more to know in order to enhance your visit experience - the mall has a green rooftop equipped with pop-up fountains, the underground floor is where the food court is, and…TLV Fashion Mall also houses a country club. Anyone can purchase a day pass to use its facilities, including the swimming pool.
4) Azrieli Center -
In the 1990’s Tel Aviv's skyline received one of its most iconic additions. The Azrieli Center is an impossible-to-miss architectural statement, made of three distinctly shaped towers - circular, triangular, and square - it houses one of Israel's largest malls at its base. Connected to the rest of the country with train services stopping at the nearby HaShalom Train Station, and connected to Tel Aviv’s metropolitan area with Shaul HaMelech Light Rail Station, it’s probably the most easy to access shopping mall in the country. This is probably the reason that Tel Avivians tend to stay away from it. With over 200 stores and 35 restaurants, you’ll have a lot of opportunities to check out, but do be aware that coming here midday is a bit chaotic, with many office workers descending on the food courts during lunchtime. You can also check out the observatory on the 49th floor of the circular building to view the entire metropolitan area.
Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week.Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
Show note:
• The Electrifying Story of Gan HaHashmal and Its Architecture
• Play Levontine Hotel (Booking.com affiliate link)