018 Children's Lives

Jun 26

Tel Aviv University recently hosted the second annual "Tel Aviv Conference: Israel's Future" - an ambitious gathering bringing together a striking cross-section of Israeli society to discuss the nation's most pressing challenges. The event, held last month at the university campus in the Northern part of Tel Aviv, attracted a diverse crowd of academics, politicians, activists and ordinary Israelis seeking dialogue about the country's direction during these turbulent times.

The day-long conference featured round-table discussions led by the university's top researchers, covering four crucial domains: security and society, public administration and social services, environment and technology, and international relations. The main plenary session saw figures from across the political spectrum sharing the stage, but with a major stress on figures who oppose the right wing conservative government, in accordance with Tel Aviv’s liberal and secular ethos.

Perhaps the most emotionally charged moment came when Einav Zangauker, mother of Israeli hostage Matan Zangauker, delivered a powerful speech that brought the audience to their feet for several minutes. "Parents don't put a price on their children's lives - and neither should the state," she declared, criticizing government officials for actively undermining hostage negotiations. Her words prompted spontaneous chants of "You are not alone - we are with you!" echoing through the auditorium. At the moment of her speech - her son, Matan, was held captive in Gaza along with 58 other hostages.

University President Professor Ariel Porat didn't shy away from controversy, stating firmly that "The academy must serve as a beacon lighting the way for society as a whole. We do not have the freedom to stand aside and hope for the best." He stressed the critical importance of upholding academic freedom and democratic values, revealing that university presidents have agreed to shut down campuses immediately if the government fails to comply with Supreme Court rulings. Porat also called on academics to speak out more forcefully about civilian casualties in Gaza, warning that moral deterioration would eventually affect all of Israeli society: “Compassion for the innocent, and children in particular, does not contradict the longing to see those who were kidnapped back home, it does not contradict love of Israel, it does not contradict Zionism or Jewish values, it does not contradict the values of the Israel Defense Forces, it does not contradict the goal of defending our country. The opposite is true - compassion for children’s lives is part of all of these.”

I was thinking about these powerful messages when I saw two people sitting at a coffee place on Geula street. It’s one of my personal favorites, Geula street, since it leads you in a downward path towards the beach. Also, the name of the street in Hebrew means redemption. As you walk down Geula street, you have a constant view of the Mediterranean Sea laid on the horizon - if redemption was to look like something it would probably be that beautiful view of the sky touching the sea below. The two people I noticed were sitting with their coffee cups on small stools. Each had a sticker on the shirt with a hand written number on it. I think it was 572, or around that. Israelis know that It marks the number of days that the war in Gaza has been going on, it marks the number of the days that Israelis have been held hostage, since October 7th, 2023. I caught a glimpse of the number written on their chests, a small yet powerful reminder of the reality we live in, as I was walking in my bathing suit towards the beach. When I reached the sandy waterfront and saw dozens of kids playing around I couldn’t help but think to myself how cherished their lives should be, simply on account of their childish innocence. When all of humankind would adhere to this axiom, we will surely see redemption.

My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.

The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -

The newly opened Hotel Bazaar is housed in a historic Bauhaus building that once served as a marketplace during the British Mandate period - hence its evocative name. Located on Jerusalem Boulevard, just steps away from Jaffa’s Flea Market, the hotel's design draws inspiration from its vibrant surroundings. The interior features unique artwork, some crafted by local artisans, aimed to immerse guests in the colourful character of this ancient Mediterranean city.

After having breakfast at the hotel’s restaurant, and making sure you got your hat, sunglasses, sunscreen and bottle of water - you'll be perfectly positioned and well equipped to start exploring. Just a few minutes walk and you’ll be at the iconic Jaffa Clock Tower to begin my Old Jaffa audio tour.

This hour-long circular journey unveils one of the world's most ancient port cities, where characters like Alexander the Great, the Crusaders and Napoleon Bonaparte once walked. As my guided route leads you through Old Jaffa's beautifully preserved alleyways, you'll discover archaeological findings dating back to the pharaohs and learn how these narrow passages witnessed countless civilizations rise and fall.

The tour weaves through the Artists' Quarter, where Middle Eastern stone buildings were transformed into creative spaces. At the Wishing Bridge, you'll have the opportunity to make a wish while overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. I'll also show you to Andromeda's Rocks, sharing the Greek mythology connecting this princess to Jaffa's shoreline, before ascending to the highest point in Old Jaffa for a spectacular panoramic view of Tel Aviv's coastline.

Throughout the journey, I'll share personal stories about how my own family, the Chelouche family, contributed to modernizing Jaffa in the late 19th century. After completing this circular route, you'll find yourself conveniently close to the Flea Market area, where you can look for bargains, and eventually circle back to Hotel Bazaar when the heat and humidity compel you to take a midday break.

You can make sure you've downloaded my Old Jaffa audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -

Old Jaffa's Secrets: A Circular Tour from the Clock Tower to Yefet Street

If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.

Last week, I began my series on the city's best museums to visit during the scorching midday hours when the Mediterranean humidity and heat make outdoor explorations less than ideal. Summer 2025 in Tel Aviv is no exception, so it’s best to plan for indoor activities in the morning hours and high noon, continuing your exploration of the city in the afternoon and evening hours. As I mentioned, these cultural institutions offer not just an air-conditioned escape, but also enriching encounters with art, history and innovation. Let's continue with part two of my Tel Aviv museums list:

1) Nahum Gutman Art Museum - Tucked away in the historic Neve Tzedek neighborhood, the Nahum Gutman Museum occupies a charming 19th-century building that perfectly complements the artist's works. Gutman became renowned for his colorful, naive-style paintings that captured the spirit of early day Tel Aviv. The Gutman museum displays a permanent exhibition of his paintings, illustrations and sculptures, offering visitors a glimpse into the formative years of the city through the artist’s eyes. Particularly captivating are his vibrant scenes of Tel Aviv's shoreline and Jaffa's port, rendered in his distinctive style with bold colors and simplified forms. The museum frequently hosts workshops for children inspired by Gutman's techniques, as he was also a celebrated children's book illustrator. If you’re not a fan of big art museums, looking for a byte-sized art experience in a more intimate setting, this boutique museum is preferable to the Tel Aviv Museum of Art, which I mentioned in the last episode.

2) Palmach Museum - For those interested in understanding Israel's military history, the Palmach Museum offers an immersive experience unlike traditional museums. Rather than displaying artifacts behind glass, this innovative space employs multimedia techniques to tell the story of the Palmach - the elite fighting force of the Haganah - the pre-state Jewish underground paramilitary organization. Visitors follow a group of young recruits through their training and missions in the 1930’s and 1940’s under the British Mandate, with the narrative unfolding across realistic recreated environments enhanced by film projections and sound effects. The tour culminates in Israel's 1948 War of Independence, in which the Palmach and other Jewish fighting forces joined together to form the Israel Defense Forces - Israel’s national army. The IDF’s triumph in the Israeli War of Independence is an amazing story of young men and women who rose to fight for their country’s freedom. The museum requires advance reservations, as visitors move in small guided groups through the 90-minute experience. This is an excellent option for history buffs seeking deeper insights into Israel's founding narrative.

3) The Steinhardt Museum of Natural History - Opened in 2018, this state-of-the-art natural history museum houses over 5 million specimens, making it the largest collection of natural history artifacts in the Middle East. The building's distinctive architecture is said to echo Noah’s Ark, symbolizing humankind’s preservation of the animal kingdom. The museum's exhibits are organized by different environments, showcasing Israel's remarkable biodiversity - from the ecosystems of the Mediterranean Sea, through the colder mountain areas of the Galilee, to the Negev Desert. The museum's crown jewel is its extensive collection of local wildlife specimens, including some extinct and endangered species found nowhere else. Interactive displays explain how Israel's location at the crossroads of three continents has created such diverse habitats within a small geographic area. The museum also features a fascinating exhibit on human evolution and ancient populations that inhabited the region. The museum was designed as an educational center, making it purposely children-oriented, so this is also an excellent option for families seeking refuge from the midday heat.

Do take into account that the Natural History Museum and the Palmach Museum are in the Northern Part of Tel Aviv, a bit further away from the city center. So are the ANU Museum of the Jewish People and the Israel Museum at the Yitzhak Rabin Center, which I mentioned in the last episode. If you’re staying in the city centre, I recommend either taking a taxi or driving there with AutoTel (the city’s car sharing scheme), because it can take too much of your time to get there by public transit and it’s also too far away to get there walking or cycling. I also recommend visiting at least two of them on the same day, because they’re in the same area. Museums usually open at 9 or 10 AM, but be extra mindful of opening days, as they all have at least one day on which they are closed, either on Saturday or Sunday.

Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week. Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.