021 By the Book
It was in the spring of 1926, when the very first "Hebrew Book" celebration took place on Rothschild Boulevard in what was then Little Tel Aviv. It was a day-long festival aimed at promoting Hebrew literature. The Hebrew Writersโ Association organized stalls along the boulevard, offering books for a discounted fare. Festivities also took place in Tel Avivโs first school with a music concert and "five o'clock tea". Public meetings with famous authors were held in the evening hours and a dancing event brought the day to a close.
The newspapers of the day captured the festive atmosphere: "All day long there was a holiday spirit in the streets. Special automobiles bearing signs and inscriptions distributed flyers about 'Book Day.'" Chaim Weizmann himself, the most important public figure of the Zionist Movement at the time, spoke at the opening ceremony, praising the Writers' Association for taking "the first step in restoring the crown of Hebrew culture to its former glory." Itโs worth noting that for almost two thousand years, Hebrew was kept as a holy language, the language of biblical studies and prayers in Jewish communities. It was not used as a day-to-day language until modern times, when Jews started to return to their ancestral homeland.
Tel Aviv was established as the First Hebrew City in the Modern Age. Indeed, the first school in Tel Aviv was the first high school in the world to only give lessons in Hebrew. Surprisingly, Tel Aviv is also named after a book - the Hebrew translation of the book โOld New Landโ by Theodor Herzl, the founder of the Zionist Movement. No wonder that this city - the only one in the world to be named after a book - was also the place in which the annual Hebrew Book celebrations were introduced.
Last month saw the annual Hebrew Book Week across Israel. Tel Aviv, of course, organized a major event with a massive book fair at Sarona Park, which drew tens of thousands of visitors, transforming the urban oasis into a literary wonderland. Although the festival was interrupted by the Israel-Iran war, it was reignited the following week after a ceasefire agreement was reached. Books were offered for deeply discounted prices, and additional events included book signing by authors, creative writing workshops, and theatrical performances based on beloved Hebrew children's books. For readers of less mainstream genres, an independent publishers fair took place at the foreground of the Tel Aviv Cinematheque, showcasing sixty small presses spanning from poetry to graphic novels, from academic texts to experimental fiction.
I couldn't help but think about Bracha Peli, who initiated the very first Hebrew Book celebrations 99 years ago. Operating from her bookstore on Rothschild Boulevard, she turned a page in Tel Avivโs history. From Peli's single storefront to today's citywide celebration encompassing 24 municipal libraries and 40 street libraries, Tel Aviv's love affair with books continues to evolve.
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -
The Saul Hotel is a 34-room boutique hotel on quiet Tchernichovsky Street - the name of the hotel is reminiscent of the street - Saul, or the more Hebraic- Shaul, is the given name of famous Hebrew poet Shaul Tchernichovsky. So famous is he that his portrait appears on Israeli currency - the green fifty Shekel banknote, to be precise. Speaking of green, the Saul Hotel is the only one in Tel Aviv to hold the Green Key label from the global Foundation of Environmental Education, a recognition of the establishmentโs commitment to sustainability. The hotelโs policy is to minimize carbon footprint, including zero use of disposables, and nurture connections with local businesses to cultivate the urban ecosystem.
The building's 1940โs character was preserved and layered in contemporary comfort and those with a passion for architecture and design will surely appreciate the way in which concrete walls meet sesame floors and the collection of vintage furniture. Rooms overlooking the street offer semi-private balconie, perfect for morning coffee, while the rooftop terrace serves up city views with your evening drink. Nestled right in the heart of Tel Avivโs historic core, you're engulfed in tranquility, only a few minutes stroll away from the city's pulse.
After your morning coffee and freshly baked croissant at the lobby's coffeehouse, you're perfectly positioned for my White City audio tour. Starting at nearby Dizengoff Square - the heart of Tel Aviv's Bauhaus district - this walking experience explores what makes this collection of over 4,000 International Style buildings so culturally significant. In 2003, UNESCO recognized the White City of Tel Aviv as a World Heritage Site, acknowledging not just the architecture but the profound story of European modernism transplanted to Middle Eastern sands.
My tour reveals how German-Jewish architects fleeing Nazi persecution created these pristine structures with their functional elegance and minimalist aesthetic. You'll discover the distinctive features - rounded balconies catching sea breezes, ribbon windows flooding interiors with light and more. These weren't just design choices but revolutionary adaptations to climate and culture. As we walk through the surrounding streets, I'll point out restored gems once threatened with demolition, now among the city's most coveted real estate. The architectural legacy is a testament to the way in which Tel Aviv built itself as part of the Modern Movement in Architecture - its influence is very much felt in many cities across the world.
You can make sure you've downloaded my White City audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -
If you have any questions - youโll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and thereโs a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
August 2025, like any August in Israel, sees peak heat, and in Tel Aviv itโs felt even more for two reasons - the first being the proximity to the Mediterranean Sea, which brings in high levels of humidity; the second being the urban heat island phenomenon, defined as the tendency of urban built up areas to be hotter than nearby rural green spaces. This is why I recommend sticking to a strict regimen of exploring the city during peak summer - indoors during the day and outdoors only by late afternoon. To help you choose a great place for your evening open air hang out, hereโs a list of four places to enjoy in Tel Aviv after sunset -
1) Jaffa Flea Market - As the antique stalls close and the sun sets over Jaffa, the flea market area transforms into one of the cityโs most lively nightlife districts. The narrow alleys are filled with people coming for drinks in the bars and restaurants which occupy the restored buildings that give Jaffa its special middle eastern look and feel. The area pulses with a bohemian energy, mixing Middle Eastern charm with contemporary cool. Music spills into the streets from the Main Bazaar restaurant, to mention one of many establishments in the Jaffa flea market area. Sitting in the open air section under string lights allows you to capture the certain vibe that this place has. Their wood-fired pizzas and signature cocktails draw crowds late into the night.
2) Nahalat Binyamin Street - This pedestrian paradise becomes a vibrant social scene after dark, when the road is blocked to through traffic to give way to a bustling strip of bars and restaurants. An energetic crowd of style-conscious young adults fills the pedestrianized space and tables spill onto the car-free street, creating an open-air party atmosphere where conversations flow as freely as the drinks. โThe Princeโ pub (HaNasich), which reigns supreme from its rooftop perch atop a historic 1920s building, is a great open air choice for food and drinks. After climbing through graffiti stained stairwells, you emerge onto a magical terrace with eclectic furniture and old-fashioned lighting. Live music sessions also happen here from time to time, so itโs a great place to spend a long summer night and take in some of Tel Avivโs creative energy.
3) Dizengoff Street - sidewalk cafes and chic bars line this iconic main street in the city that never sleeps. The atmosphere here is sophisticated yet relaxed, attracting a diverse mix of fashionable locals, international visitors and Tel Aviv's cultural elite. The tree-lined street buzzes with energy as diners linger over wine. The historic Dizengoff Square area particularly comes alive at night, with its renovated fountain providing a kind of gathering spot before nights out. Sidewalk terraces overflow with animated conversations in multiple languages. The Beer Garden right next to Dizengoff Square is a long lasting establishment in a city that sees businesses quickly being replaced. Long tables and long benches offer an easy going outdoor pub atmosphere right at the heart of everything. Itโs a great spot to order a pint from a wide selection of draft beers while overlooking the heart of the White City.
4) Florentin Neighborhood - the most hipster area in Tel Aviv, its graffiti-covered industrial buildings and narrow streets attract artists, musicians and free spirits who've transformed abandoned warehouses into galleries, studios and alternative nightspots. The atmosphere is decidedly anti-establishment - think Berlin meets Middle East - with a younger, edgier crowd than Tel Aviv's glossier districts. The streets come alive usually after midnight and especially on Thursdays and Fridays. Hoodna Bar captures Florentin's essence perfectly, with its makeshift outdoor sitting area spilling onto the curb between warehouses and garages. The come-as-you-are spirit is very much felt in this half-communal space, which hosts live shows almost every evening.
Thanks for listening and youโll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week.Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
Show note:
โข telaviv.tours
โข The Saul Hotel (Booking.com affiliate link)
