025 Young and Old

Aug 14

Tel Aviv is aging, and the numbers tell a story that might surprise anyone who thinks of it as Israel's eternal youth capital. According to new data from the Israeli Population and Immigration Authority released last month, less than 20% of Tel Avivians are under 18 years old, placing the city at 29th on Israel's list of cities ranked by percentage of children - almost at the very bottom of the list.

The top of the list reveals a different Israel entirely. Five ultra-Orthodox cities dominate the rankings where children make up the majority of residents: Modi'in Illit, Beitar Illit, Beit Shemesh, Elad, and Bnei Brak all have over 50% of their population under 18.

Professor Guy Hochman from Reichman University's behavioral economics program points out that the implications extend beyond mere numbers. High birth rates in areas with low economic contribution - whether due to age or population characteristics - raise questions about future integration, employment, and tax contribution. Meanwhile, cities like Tel Aviv present a different challenge: their low child percentages might reflect not declining birth rates but rather their character as magnets for temporary residents - foreign workers, students and singles.

This demographic map of Israel reveals more than birth rates - it shows us two different visions of Israeli society developing in parallel. One concentrated in aging urban centers with low birth rates, focused on innovation and global integration; the other in rapidly growing communities centered around tradition and family life. The challenge facing Israel isn't just about balancing budgets between young and old cities, but about bridging these two worlds to create a sustainable future for both.

I was thinking about this demographic divide as I was walking the street, seeing way more children than usual, due to the summer school break. This quaint sight is nothing out of the ordinary in the ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods of Jerusalem or the high birth rate cities such as Bnei Brak, where Israel's future is being shaped by families of five, six, or more children. Seeing Tel Aviv is like reading only half a story. You really need to go to other places to get the full picture. The question isn't just where Israel's children live today, but what kind of society they'll inherit tomorrow.

My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.

The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -

Market House Hotel is located near the landmark Jaffa Clock Tower. This 44-room boutique property literally reveals the city's magnificent past through a transparent glass floor in the lobby, showcasing archaeological remnants of an 8th-century Byzantine chapel discovered beneath. The hotel's design draws inspiration from the nearby flea market atmosphere, featuring oriental charm through carefully curated items and artwork that capture the essence of this ancient port city.

What makes Market House Hotel truly exceptional is its seamless blend of historical preservation with contemporary comfort. The building itself dates back 150 years and up until the 1970s it served as the Shin Bet headquarters, Israel’s internal security service (equivalent to the American FBI and the British MI5), adding layers of intrigue to its already rich narrative. Each of the hotel's rooms integrates into the vibrant rhythm of Jaffa life, with many featuring balconies overlooking the bustling market and the surrounding stone buildings. The hotel's crown jewel is its rooftop terrace, where guests can enjoy panoramic views stretching from Old Jaffa to Tel Aviv's modern skyline.

After savoring your morning coffee on your private balcony or exploring the hotel's art collection featuring local Jaffa personalities, you'll be perfectly positioned for my Old Jaffa audio tour. Beginning steps away, at the iconic Clock Tower, this circular walking experience guides you through the port city's twisted tale filled with familiar characters from Alexander the Great to Napoleon Bonaparte. You’ll have my voice as your local guide, leading you past Andromeda's Rocks where Greek mythology comes alive, and up to the highest point in Old Jaffa for stunning Mediterranean vistas. In this one I also share the stories of my family, with my ancestors arriving in Jaffa circa 1840, almost two centuries ago. By the end of the tour I’ll guide you down the hill, from the winding alleyways of the Artists' Quarter to the Flea Market area - a great place to grab lunch at the end of the audio tour.

You can make sure you've downloaded my Old Jaffa audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -

Old Jaffa's Secrets: A Circular Tour from the Clock Tower to Yefet Street

If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.

Exploring Tel Aviv's neighborhoods is like peeling back layers of time, each district telling its own chapter in the city's remarkable transformation. Starting from the south and working northward, let me share with you a guide to the city’s neighbourhoods. This can be helpful in starting to plan your visit to Tel Aviv, prioritizing the places you want to visit according to your interests:

1) Jaffa: Ancient Meets Artisanal

Jaffa has thousands of years of history, being one of the oldest port cities in the world. Once the gateway to the Holy Land for pilgrims and traders, Jaffa today seamlessly blends archaeological treasures with contemporary culture. The narrow stone alleys that once echoed with the footsteps of Crusaders now house artist studios and galleries, while the ancient harbor still welcomes fishing boats alongside luxury yachts. The gentrification of recent decades has transformed this rough area into a Middle Eastern gem.

For the quintessential Jaffa experience, visit the Jaffa Flea Market on a Friday morning when vendors spread their wares across the streets. Here, among the antique brass coffee sets and vintage furniture, you'll also find hand-made designer clothes and art works made by local artists.

2) Neve Tzedek: Tel Aviv's Romantic Beginning

A short walk north brings you to Neve Tzedek, literally "Oasis of Justice," the first Jewish neighborhood built outside Jaffa's walls in 1887. Founded by the Chelouche family and other pioneering families seeking space and fresh air, this picturesque quarter became the birthplace of Hebrew culture. The neighborhood's narrow streets and restored 19th-century buildings create an almost European atmosphere, earning it the nickname "Le Petit Paris" in its early days.

The heart of Neve Tzedek today is the Suzanne Dellal Centre, while fashion boutiques, art galleries and upscale restaurants occupy the main Shabazi Street. The area perfectly captures Tel Aviv's ability to honor its past while embracing contemporary sophistication. I especially recommend dropping by at Anita ice cream shop. The sweet flavours of this charming spot will forever stick Neve Tzedek into your tastebuds.

3) Florentin: The Gritty Hipster Haven

A little to the south of Neve Tzedek, the area of Florentin, with its raw, industrial edge, presents a stark contrast to its posh neighbour. Once home to working-class families, this neighborhood has evolved from an enclave of small workshops into Tel Aviv's bohemian quarter without losing its authentic grittiness. Street art covers building walls, independent galleries occupy former warehouses, and young artists live in converted studios, creating an atmosphere that's both rebellious and creative.

Go for a walk along the pedestrianized streets of Florentin and you’ll see bar after bar, filled with young adults looking for all the good time Tel Aviv has to offer.

4) Gan HaHashmal: The Up and Coming

At Gan HaHashmal, (the "Electricity Garden" in Hebrew) you’ll find a former run down area transformed into Tel Aviv's hippest district. Once dominated by the city's first power plant, this compact neighbourhood now buzzes with electrifying energy, boasting international cuisine, design studios and music clubs. The neighborhood represents Tel Aviv's talent for urban renewal, turning a slum into a cultural hub.

Check out Levontin 7 - Israel’s leading indie music venue. It holds live performances almost every night. Some of Israel’s contemporary music legends actually started in this very club, now endorsed by the local government without losing its rock and rolling edge.

We have a lot to cover, so I’ll have to continue this list next time.

Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week.Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.