027 Swimming with Dolphins

Aug 28

With so many people crowding the beaches of Tel Aviv, it's easy to think that it's the natural habitat of human beings, solely. But the wavy waters are home to some other species, as well. In the beginning of this summer season, researchers spotted a pod - a group of dolphins, swimming together just off the coast of Tel Aviv. A grandmother, a mother, and a newborn calf - all common bottlenose dolphins - were observed gliding in the Mediterranean Sea near the city's beaches. This sighting is a first of its kind in Israel.

When marine biologists examined the images taken during the weekly survey off Tel Aviv's coast, they recognized a familiar dolphin, given the name Hooks years ago. But this time, something was different. Alongside Hooks swam what appeared to be her daughter, previously spotted as a calf, now accompanied by her own tiny offspring. Three generations in a single frame - grandmother, mother, and baby. After leaving its mother, a baby dolphin rarely remains recognizable to scientists, so this multi-generational sighting excited researchers who have been monitoring these waters for over two decades.

The bottlenose dolphins spotted in that survey represent part of a stable population of approximately 360 individuals that have been documented by researchers along the years. Fortunately, they're not considered endangered. This 25-year research project, represents one of the longest-running marine mammal studies in the eastern Mediterranean and is anticipated to continue with the help of volunteers being trained as marine surveyors.

But dolphins aren't the only marine residents making headlines off Tel Aviv's coast. In these final days of August, we remember how jellyfish swarms turned beach visits into cautious affairs for swimmers. Fortunately, the invasive "nomad jellyfish" came in smaller numbers than in previous years and began its retreat from Israeli waters quite early in the season. The seas were described as almost completely clear of the stinging visitors already in the middle of July. Hopefully, this trend will continue in the forthcoming years, making the beaches of Tel Aviv more pleasant.

I was thinking about this fascinating marine drama playing out just meters from where thousands of Tel Avivians spend their summer days. While beachgoers focus on finding the perfect spot for their umbrellas, three generations of dolphins are raising families in the same waters, and jellyfish swarms come and go like seasonal tourists. It's a reminder that beneath the surface of what we consider our urban playground lies an entire ecosystem that has been thriving long before the first skyscraper rose from the sand.

My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.

The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. I also have one more audio tour, that’s in Jerusalem. Here's one way to experience it -

Jerusalem Garden Home sits in the heart of Baka, a bed-and-breakfast that perfectly captures this neighborhood's remarkable transformation from a wealthy Arab enclave in the times of the British Mandate, to vibrant international community nowadays. Located on the main road of this picturesque Jerusalem neighbourhood, this intimate property features a stone courtyard with some greenery, where guests can start their day of exploration with a breakfast served by the property managers, who clearly care about creating a personal experience.

The Arabic name of the neighbourhood, "Baka", means valley, referencing the biblical Valley of Refaim that runs along the neighborhood's western boundary. In the 1890s, that valley saw the construction of the first railway in the Land of Israel, stretching from Jaffa to Jerusalem, ushering in an age of modernity in this part of the Middle East. The inauguration of the Jerusalem Railway Station created a commercial hub that attracted wealthy Muslim and Christian Arab families. These affluent residents built magnificent stone mansions that still define the neighborhood's character today. The old 19th century train station turned into a bustling commercial district with shops and restaurants, and even a small Ferris wheel. The railway has transformed into one of Jerusalem’s most lively parks, preserving the antique steel tracks. It has also become one of the city’s main bicycle roads.

Hilly as it is, Jerusalem is still working hard to be more hospitable to cyclists, but its network of public buses is reliable and most times rapid. This is the best mode of transportation, I find, to bridge the 4 kilometers between Baka and the Old City of Jerusalem, where you can take guidance from my 90-minute audio tour. This comprehensive walking experience takes you through the sacred sites where the three Abrahamic faiths converge. Beginning at the Jaffa Gate, you'll navigate the intricate maze of market streets where Christianity, Judaism, and Islam have coexisted for millennia, or rather tried to coexist.

The tour guides you through each quarter's distinct character - from the reproduction of the Golden Menorah in front of the Hurva Synagogue to the Via Dolorosa where you'll retrace the footsteps of Jesus. Along Al-Wad Street - Arabic for "the ravine" - you'll witness the daily convergence of Muslim worshipers heading to the Dome of the Rock, Jews walking toward the Western Wall, and Christian pilgrims making their way to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.

Last month, one of the audio tour listeners commented online: “Excellent tour when you have half a day to see some sights.” I replied with: “Exactly what I was aiming for. Glad you found it useful! -- Tomer”. Dozens of visitors have downloaded this audio experience and their average review score is 4.9 out of 5.

You can make sure you've downloaded my Old City of Jerusalem audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -

The Four Corners of the Historical Old City: A Self-Guided Jerusalem Tour

If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.

In the last two episodes, I listed Tel Aviv's central neighbourhoods - from Jaffa and Neve Tzedek to Florentin and Gan HaHashmal; then from the Carmel Market to Rothschild Boulevard, from Meir Garden to Sarona. Today, let me take you further north through the remaining neighborhoods that complete Tel Aviv's urban tapestry:

1) The Old North and Tel Aviv Port

The Old North ("HaTzafon HaYashan", in Hebrew) was developed in the 1930s and 1940s as Tel Aviv expanded northward beyond its historic center. This area is characterized by its Bauhaus architecture and leafy streets. It’s considered more relaxed than other parts of town, so if you’re looking for a quiet vacation rental not far from the city’s hustle and bustle, the Old North neighbourhood is a terrific fit.

The crown jewel of the Old North is the Tel Aviv Port, which tells one of the city's most remarkable transformation stories. Born from necessity during the 1930s Arab revolt when Jewish residents needed an alternative to Jaffa Port, this modest facility handled passenger travel and Jaffa orange exports until World War II ended its civilian use. After decades of abandonment, a comprehensive restoration in the early 2000s created an attractive open air commercial space - attracting millions of visitors annually, coming to walk along its famous wooden deck shaped like ocean waves and visit its boutiques and restaurants.

2) HaYarkon Park: The Green Lung of the City

Tel Aviv's Central Park - actually larger than its New York counterpart and double the size of London's Hyde Park - stretches along HaYarkon River. This urban oasis boasts extensive lawns, six specialized gardens including the world's largest rock garden, a tropical garden with exotic plants and free-flying parrots at the Yarkon River bird safari. The park doubles as a major concert venue where international stars have performed, such as Bruno Mars, Guns N' Roses and Robie Williams. I especially recommend renting a bicycle, riding them along the beachfront promenade to reach HaYarkon Park.

3) Beyond the River: Tel Aviv University and the “Museum Mile”

The Northern neighbourhoods of Tel Aviv, beyond HaYarkon River, represent Tel Aviv's most prestigious residential district. The area's academic centerpiece, in the Ramat Aviv neighbourhood, is Tel Aviv University - Israel's largest university with over 30,000 students. Its campus spreads across 220 acres, consistently ranking among the world's top institutions. At the heart of the university campus, sitting on the tallest point in Tel Aviv, you’ll find ANU - Museum of the Jewish People.

Beyond the campus lies the "Museum Mile" - an extraordinary concentration of cultural institutions, including the Natural History Museum; the Eretz Israel Museum, with its archaeological pavilions and 3,000-year-old Tel Qasile excavation; the Palmach Museum, with its immersive storytelling about pre-state Israel's elite fighting unit; and the Israeli Museum at the Yitzhak Rabin Center, with its societal, historical and political display of the Israeli experience.

4) Kikar HaMedina: Tel Aviv's Luxury Fashion Circle

Kikar HaMedina, literally "Plaza of the State," represents Tel Aviv's answer to New York’s Fifth Avenue or London’s Regent Street. It’s a circular plaza, now the construction site of three residential skyscrapers, that has become the epicenter of luxury international fashion in Israel. The circular street that rings the plaza has transformed into one of the most expensive areas in Tel Aviv, lined with luxury apartments above ground-floor boutiques housing the world's most prestigious brands: Gucci, Saint Laurent, Hermès, Dior, Burberry, Valentino, and dozens more.

That completes our journey through Tel Aviv's neighborhoods - from the ancient stones of Jaffa all the way north to the academic heights of Ramat Aviv and the luxury shopping circus of Kikar HaMedina. We've covered twelve distinct areas, each representing a different chapter in this remarkable city's story. If you missed some, check the previous episode or the one before that. From Ottoman-era port cities to German agricultural colonies, from Bauhaus architecture to cutting-edge startups, Tel Aviv's neighborhoods showcase a city that constantly reinvents itself while never forgetting its past.

Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week. Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.