028 Breathing Again

Sep 4

After three months of stifling heat and oppressive humidity, Tel Aviv is finally exhaling. The weather apps show not the usual 30 plus degrees Celsius (that’s about 90 Fahrenheit), but rather the more manageable 20 something. More importantly, the Mediterranean humidity that made even short walks feel like marathons has loosened its grip on the city. For the first time since June, Tel Avivians are stepping outside during midday hours without that immediate urge to seek air-conditioned shelter or take off one’s shirt. The city is breathing again, and so are its residents.

It seems like there’s no place where it is better felt than Railway Park - stretching for more than a mile (about two kilometers) with lush green lawns dotted with young adults who have emerged from their summer hibernation. You can also see families with kids, running freely across the grass while their parents finally feel comfortable just sitting outdoors, not beside a swimming pool. The park's trees, planted only a few years ago along the historic route of the Jaffa-Jerusalem railway, create a natural cooling corridor where the Mediterranean breeze flows unobstructed from the coast not far away.

This September relief extends throughout the city's green spaces. At Meir Park, the ornamental pond reflects not just the surrounding palm trees but also the faces of locals who have rediscovered the simple pleasure of afternoon strolls. The ducks gliding across the water seem almost celebratory, as if they too appreciate the return of human company after months of having the park largely to themselves during the scorching daylight hours. Kiryat Sefer Park is another perfect spot for locals to hang out in the open air. This one is famous for the gentle water stream that flows through its center every afternoon. Kids love to trail their feet in the cool waters while others simply enjoy the luxury of being outdoors in almost ridiculously great weather.

But perhaps nowhere is this seasonal transition more evident than in Ruth Garden, Tel Aviv's quintessential pocket park nestled at the intersection of four streets all bearing women's names - Ruth, Yael, Esther and Shulamit - all biblical characters celebrated today as Jewish feminist icons. This small urban oasis exemplifies the genius of Sir Patrick Geddes - the person responsible for the master plan for Tel Aviv, drawn out in the 1920s, which strategically placed intimate green spaces throughout the residential neighborhoods. These pocket gardens were designed to provide residents with immediate access to a bit of nature and fresh air, understanding that in a Mediterranean climate, outdoor living is the law of the land.

Giant ficus trees with leafy canopies hover over Ruth Garden, which represents exactly what Geddes envisioned: a breathing space where neighbors could gather, children could play safely, and urban dwellers could maintain their connection to the natural world. As September's gentler temperatures arrive, these pocket gardens come alive again as communities reclaim their outdoor gathering spaces.

I was thinking about this seasonal renewal as I walked through the Railway Park, watching joggers emerge for their first comfortable midday run in months. The city's relationship with its outdoor spaces is so fundamentally tied to weather that September doesn't just mark the end of summer - it marks the return of Tel Aviv's outdoor soul, when the carefully planned green infrastructure of the Geddes Plan fulfills its intended purpose of making urban life simply pleasant.

My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.

The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to do just that -

CUCU Hotel stands out as Tel Aviv's most refreshingly quirky boutique property, literally a stone’s throw away from the iconic Dizengoff Square. This self-described "free-spirited artist" of Tel Aviv hotels offers 33 rooms designed with a playful twist to offer a breath of fresh air in the beating heart of Tel Aviv. Located in the vibrant city center, right on Dizengoff Street, CUCU puts you steps away from the restaurants and bars that the city has become famous for.

After enjoying CUCU's full Israeli breakfast at their self-operated coffee place spilling onto the sidewalk, you'll be ideally positioned to begin my White City audio tour. Just a short stroll brings you to Dizengoff Square - the beating heart of Tel Aviv's UNESCO World Heritage Site and the starting point for this architectural journey. This self-guided exploration takes you through the world's largest collection of Bauhaus buildings, over 4,000 structures that earned Tel Aviv its designation as a World Heritage Site in 2003.

My audio tour reveals the fascinating story behind these pristine buildings - how German-Jewish architects fleeing Nazi persecution in the 1930s transformed Tel Aviv into a modernist masterpiece. You'll discover the distinctive features that make International Style architecture so special: curved balconies catching Mediterranean breezes and ribbon windows, adapted perfectly to the local climate.

The route winds through the area surrounding Dizengoff Square, passing not far away from Ruth Garden. As you follow my guidance, you'll understand why this collection represents not just architectural history, but also cultural innovation on which Israel prides itself.

You can make sure you've downloaded my White City audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -

The White City

If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.

Are you coming to Israel in late September and early October 2025? This is the time in which Jewish High Holy Days are celebrated.

On Monday, September 22nd, in the evening hours, begins Rosh HaShana - the Jewish New Year. During Rosh HaShana, which spans two whole days (September 23rd and 24th, 2025), expect many businesses, restaurants, and attractions to close or operate on reduced hours. Public transportation will be limited, and the usual bustling energy of Tel Aviv's streets will give way to a more contemplative atmosphere. Many of the young adults living in the city will take some time off to travel abroad or drive to their parents' house in the suburbs, making the city feel more vacant than usual. On Rosh HaShana families gather for elaborate meals featuring symbolic foods like apples dipped in honey and pomegranates - all representing hopes for a sweet and complete new year. The sound of the shofar (ram's horn) will echo from synagogues across the city.

Rosh HaShana is only the beginning for a ten-day period of reflection and renewal that culminates with Yom Kippur on Wednesday, October 1st, 2025. The Day of Atonement is when the entire country essentially stops. Even secular Tel Aviv observes this solemn day - businesses shut down completely and bicycles take over the roads as all motor powered vehicles halt.

The holiday period concludes with the week-long celebration of Sukkot beginning October 6th, 2025. Temporary outdoor structures appear on balconies and in courtyards throughout the city, commemorating the time when the Jewish People escaped slavery in Egypt and had to live in makeshift houses (or Sukkot, in Hebrew). This is also prime time for Israeli domestic tourism, as many locals use the holiday break for family gatherings. Sukkot will be celebrated on Monday, October 6th, in the evening hours, with a festive dinner. One more will take place by the end of Sukkot, on October 13th, followed by festive events the day after, celebrating the fact that the Jewish People received the Ten Commandments en route to the Land of Israel.

The country really switches to a whole different time frame during this period of high holidays. If you’re planning on visiting a museum or walking into a restaurant, even if you’re thinking about using public transit - check the hours in advance. Also, if you’re planning an itinerary for your vacation, feel free to send it my way. I’ll be happy to go over it and make sure you’re not missing anything.

As many Jewish families from around the world travel to Israel during this special time to celebrate with relatives, Tel Aviv becomes particularly family-friendly. After thinking of one specific recommendation for a family visit, I finally landed on Eretz Israel Museum. It’s a sort of open-air museum with numerous pavilions that hold wonderful exhibits showcasing different aspects of life in the Land of Israel (Eretz Israel, in Hebrew).

What makes this museum awesome for families is its incredible diversity - children can explore ancient glass vessels in the Glass Pavilion, learn about traditional crafts such as pottery making and bread baking in the "Man and His Work" center, and marvel at the 3,000-year-old Tel Qasile archaeological excavation site right in the museum grounds, where twelve distinct layers of ancient civilizations have been uncovered.

The museum's crown jewel is the newly opened MUZA Park (MUZA stands for the museum’s abbreviated name in Hebrew and is also the Israeli pronunciation of the word muse). This stunning public garden transforms the museum experience into an outdoor adventure, featuring reconstructed olive and flour mills, ancient mosaic floors relocated from around the country, a peaceful pond, and archaeological remains scattered throughout landscaped walkways. The park is free to enter and open daily from early morning to early evening, making it perfect for families to combine cultural learning with outdoor exploration.

Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week.Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.