038 Still Optimistic
Not far from Tel Aviv’s City Hall stands a statue of a duck. Yes, a duck. It doesn’t look like a real duck, but more like a cartoon - walking on two feet, holding a briefcase, and a hint of a smile on his face. It’s not a big statue - some grown-ups standing next to it surpass its height and yet you can’t miss it. The statue is washed with vibrant yellow. The inscription on the pedestal reads, in handwritten Hebrew: עדיין אופטימי (still optimistic).
The statue of the duck was inaugurated at Masaryk Square towards Tel Aviv’s centennial year celebrations, in 2009. At the time, the duck also received an honorary citizenship title from the mayor of Tel Aviv. Yes, The city awarded a cartoon character with honorary citizenship - that’s considered normal here.
The duck was featured in a comic strip that appeared every week in a local newspaper in 1990s Tel Aviv. It grew to be a symbol of the city and what it represents - an island of normality and live-your-life kind of attitude in a country considered abnormal, and indeed in a troubled region.
The man behind the duck was Dudu Geva - an Israeli cartoonist, illustrator and comic book creator. His works were an integral part of Israeli culture and fitted the secular and liberal ethos Tel Aviv fully embraced in the 1990s. Last month, Beit Ariela - the city’s central public library - hosted a special event marking 20 years since Geva prematurely passed away at the age of 54. Comic workshops and talks about Israeli comics took place next to an exhibition showing the duck in different comic strips, as well as other notable characters that Dudu Geva had created.
The character of the duck often appeared in absurd situations of hardship, and yet the duck still kept being optimistic for some reason, or at least was expected to keep a positive approach. For example, in one of my favorites, you can see the duck being transported in a truck that spells out the name of a famous meat product company. The driver of the truck calls out to the duck something like “how about a sing-along?”
Geva took the trouble to expose the injustice of Israeli society (and its absurdity, I guess). He joined a group of artists in calling for a political secession of Tel Aviv from the State of Israel. The group that called for the establishment of “the State of Tel Aviv” did not last long, but a part of its legacy was the duck character as a kind of symbol of the Tel Avivian spirit, often dissenting from the mainstream Israeli experience.
City Flag of Tel Aviv
These days we also see another production of “מלכת אמבטיה”, officially translated as Shampoo Queen. This theatrical show is a satirical cabaret created by worldly renowned Israeli writer Hanoch Levin. His works, even 25 years after his passing, still resonate, and this one in particular. Shampoo Queen is a pacifist play that exposes the absurdity of war and jokingly critiques Israeli militarism. When it first took stage 55 years ago, the audience was unable to accept its message. After a few shows, it was taken down. Today, Levin is considered a playwright ahead of his time and audiences keep going to see Shampoo Queen on stage.
Dudu Geva and Hanoch Levin gave us two ways to approach the injustice and absurdity of our society - one represents indifference and trying to be blissfully ignorant, while the other tries to put a mirror in front of people, calling out their bluff and demanding change. They are still admired in contemporary Tel Aviv more than twenty years after they have passed away. Perhaps it’s because their efforts seem to have been in vain. They were unsuccessful in changing Israeli society, but a bit like Don Quixote, the knight who chose to fight windmills, they became canonical just for their efforts.
As I was riding my bicycle from the central public library, passing by the statue of the duck at Masaryk Square, I was thinking about Dudu Geva’s legacy. Along with Hanoch Levin and other cultural figures he contributed so much to Israeli culture and shaped the ethos of Tel Aviv today. I thought to myself, perhaps I too need to be like the duck - still optimistic?
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. I also have one more that’s in Jerusalem. Here's one way to experience it -
The King David Hotel stands as a legendary landmark since opening its doors in 1931, constructed from the same pink limestone quarried locally that graces Jerusalem's most historic buildings. This property has welcomed many international leaders and celebrities throughout its nearly century-long history, from Winston Churchill and Richard Nixon to Madonna, Prince William, and every American president who has visited Israel this century - including Barack Obama, Donald Trump and Joe Biden.
Positioned on King David Street, of course, in central Jerusalem, the hotel commands breathtaking views overlooking the Old City and Mount Zion. Guests can enjoy the seasonal outdoor heated pool within spacious gardens that face the ancient stones of the Old City walls.
After enjoying the hotel's excellent breakfast, you'll be perfectly placed to start my Old City of Jerusalem audio tour. The walk begins just steps from the hotel, at the Jaffa Gate where ancient walls welcome you into three thousand years of history. This 90-minute self-guided tour takes you through all four quarters of the Old City - Armenian, Jewish, Muslim, and Christian - where each street corner tells another story.
My narration will guide you through the Jewish Quarter and its beautifully restored buildings all the way to the Western Wall, where people have come to pray for generations. You'll walk along the narrow streets of the Muslim Quarter, including Al-Wad Street before following the Via Dolorosa through the Christian Quarter to reach the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Along the way, you'll hear my stories of the Roman emperors, Crusader knights, Ottoman sultans, and British rulers who shaped this sacred city.
Let my voice guide you through the labyrinth-like alleys of the old city. You’ll also have the opportunity to visit the busy marketplace before the route brings you full circle back to where you started. From the old city, you’ll be able to quickly get back to the King David Hotel for a mid-day rest.
You can make sure you've downloaded my Old City of Jerusalem audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -
The Four Corners of the Historical Old City: A Self-Guided Jerusalem Tour
If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
In last week's episode, I talked about Hanukkah - the eight-day Festival of Lights that runs from December 14th through December 22nd this year. If you caught that episode, you'll remember the story of the Maccabees' victory over the Greek Empire and the miracle of the oil that burned for eight days in the Second Temple.
Throughout the holiday, you'll see menorahs being lit in windows across the city each evening at sunset. If you’re in the Old City of Jerusalem it’s even more of a spectacle. I highly recommend stopping by any bakery to try Sufganiyot - those irresistible jam-filled donuts fried in deep oil and sprinkled with sugar powder. Schools are out for the entire eight days, so families take to the streets for festivities. Traffic gets even worse than usual so plan accordingly.
Menorah reproductions at the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv
Now, while Christmas isn’t a Jewish holiday, it’s still very much celebrated in Israel - in areas with significant Christian communities. The fact that Israel is home to holy sites for Christianity means these holidays take on special meaning here. Visitors can experience celebrations that feel both familiar and uniquely Middle Eastern.
One of the most beloved events happens in Jaffa, where the annual lighting of the huge Christmas tree at the historic Clock Tower has become a cherished tradition. The Christmas Parade in Jaffa is quite a spectacle as well - picture music filling the streets, colorful costumes, and Santa Claus himself, of course, leading the procession. Muslims and Jews also come to see the procession, led by the Jaffa scouts. It's a festive blend of cultures that only a place like Jaffa can pull off.
In Jerusalem, the Christmas atmosphere is even more pronounced. The main Christmas market takes place at the New Gate leading to the Christian Quarter, where the streets come alive with festive lighting. You'll find a winter food fair with seasonal delicacies and warm drinks - perfect for those cold December evenings (and Jerusalem does get cold in the winter). Souvenir and gift stands, holiday displays and live performances are also to be expected. Churches throughout the Old City hold special services and Christmas ceremonies, creating a spiritual atmosphere that draws pilgrims from around the world.
Insitde the Church of the Holy Sepulchre at the Christian Quarter in the Old City of Jerusalem
Two cities associated with the life story of Jesus Christ - Bethlehem and Nazareth - are home to large Christian Communities. The Christmas atmosphere is well felt in the streets of both. Bethlehem is where tradition places the birthplace of Jesus, and celebrating Christmas there carries profound significance for believers. The centerpiece event is a Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve, December 24th. Nazareth, the city where Jesus grew up, comes alive during Christmas in its own special way. The entire town decorates for the season - residents put up Christmas trees, you'll see Santa hats everywhere, and the streets fill with festivals and celebrations. On Christmas Eve, there's a massive colorful procession throughout Nazareth.
If you’re in the area of Jaffa on Christmas Eve, you might be interested in seeing the nightly Christmas service in one of the city’s churches. Sermons are given in English, Spanish, French and other languages, mostly for diplomatic staff residing in Israel and their families. I especially recommend visiting the Immanuel Church in the American-German Colony with its Neo-Gothic grandeur. The congregation there holds more than one Christmas service on December 24th, so that everyone can participate and hear the magical sound of the pipe organ.
Immanuel Church in the American-German Colony of Jaffa
As for New Year's Eve, on December 31st - Tel Aviv has really embraced this celebration over the years. Israelis call this night “Silvester”, following the Germans for some reason. A specific name was needed in order to differentiate New Year’s from Rosh HaShana, which is the celebration of a new year in the Jewish calendar, happening in either September or October.
Communities of Jews who came to Israel in the 1990s, following the collapse of the Soviet Union, celebrate this night following tradition that they brought from Russia, Ukraine or other communist-ruled places. The night is called Novy God and it serves as a secular observance of the New Year, though some elements of Christmas were incorporated into it. With more than one million people in Israel originating from the former USSR, you have a lot of people celebrating Novy God.
While religious Jews mostly refrain from adopting customs considered foreign, especially if they are somewhat connected to the Christian faith, secular Jews consider themselves international enough to be worthy of celebrating on New Year’s Eve. That’s why Tel Aviv parties on December 31st, even though it’s not an official holiday in Israel and January 1st is a regular workday! Experienced party-goers usually plan ahead to call in sick that morning…
New Year’s Eve, or “Silvester”, has grown into one of the city's biggest party nights. Nightclubs throw elaborate parties, bars fill to capacity, and restaurants across town offer special menus. Make a reservation for December 31st if you want to eat at a restaurant that evening, otherwise you might not be able to find a place. It's a night when the city that never sleeps really proves its nickname.
Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week.Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
Show note:
• The Four Corners of the Historical Old City: A Self-Guided Jerusalem Tour
