039 Diplomatic Diners
Last month, the scene at Pereh restaurant on Nachalat Binyamin Street captured something remarkable about Tel Aviv's moment in international diplomacy. Jared Kushner, son-in-law of President Donald Trump, and Steve Witkoff, the president's special envoy to the Middle East and for Peace Missions - surrounded by security guards, of course - sat sampling every dish on the menu.
The architects of the ceasefire in Gaza were exploring Tel Aviv's culinary landscape between diplomatic meetings and local diners couldn't resist approaching their table. Selfie-requests were graciously accepted and Instagram was flooded with smiling faces. The evening became an impromptu celebration of what might turn out to be peace in our time, with much of the credit attributed to Kushner and Witkoff.
What makes their restaurant choice particularly telling is that they returned for a second visit just days later, this time with an even larger entourage. According to Chef Aviad Feld, Kushner and Witkoff ordered the entire menu, requesting double portions of favorites like the stuffed chicken wings that sit on a citrus-infused chicken skewer, and the slow-roasted lamb asado served with mashed potatoes.
"These are the people who make everyone feel better about waking up in the morning," Feld said, visibly moved by hosting the famous American peacemakers. The generous tip they left matched their diplomatic generosity - both men working tirelessly to bring hostages home and secure regional stability.
Following President Trump’s quick visit to Israel, landing at and departing from TLV airport, Vice President JD Vance was able to fit a quick visit to Tel Aviv during his three-day trip to Israel. Vance's schedule included a meeting with Prime Minister Benjamin Netanyahu in Jerusalem and a visit to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in the Old City. Before departing, he was taken to meetings with Defense Minister Israel Katz and Strategic Affairs Minister Ron Dermer at the Kirya in Tel Aviv. Unlike his colleagues at the top ranks of American diplomacy, Vance was unable to experience the local culinary scene.
Israeli-American flag flying on a balcony in Tel Aviv
The growing ties between Tel Aviv and America extend far beyond diplomatic dinners and state visits. 2026 is projected to see an unprecedented number of flights connecting Tel Aviv to New York - approaching 70 weekly direct flights. This record reflects both a strengthening political alliance between two countries and a growing cultural exchange between two cities.
American Airlines is returning to operate daily flights to JFK, joining Delta's daily service, while United Airlines plans to increase its Tel Aviv-Newark route to three daily flights - similar to the usual service of Israeli aviation company El Al. Another Israeli carrier - Arkia - recently started to operate in the same air route, hopefully lowering flight prices to Tel Aviv in the long run. Not everybody can arrive at TLV Ben Gurion Airport by simply hopping on Air Force One, right?
This travel surge is catapulted by strengthened diplomatic relations under the Trump administration, increased business connections and even major sporting events (North America is preparing to host top soccer games, come summer 2026 - the FIFA World Cup). Walking through Ben Gurion Airport these days, you can feel the energy - Americans arriving for extended visits, Israelis planning New York adventures, and the sense that the distance between these two cities has somehow shrunk. Perhaps that's the real legacy of figures like Kushner and Witkoff dining at Pereh - not just the ceasefire agreements they negotiated, but the human connections they represent between two nations whose fates remain deeply intertwined.
My name is Tomer Chelouche and I've been guiding tours in Tel Aviv since 2008. I started out of fascination with my family history - the Chelouche family was one of the founding families of Tel Aviv. My ancestors built this city - and I'm telling its story.
The best way to get to know Tel Aviv better is by purchasing one of my audio tours. Here's one way to experience it -
My audio tour of Old Jaffa starts right beside the Jaffa Clock Tower. In the summer, I recommend starting no later than 10am to avoid the heat, but on these winter-ish days you can start in the late morning hours. This hour-long route takes you through ancient alleyways to conclude right around noon, positioning you ideally for lunch at one of Jaffa's most beloved institutions.
The tour itself weaves through four thousand years of history compressed into Old Jaffa's compact hillside. You'll follow the footsteps of Alexander the Great, the Crusaders and Napoleon Bonaparte through beautifully restored stone buildings that now house galleries and workshops. As you climb toward the highest point in Old Jaffa, I'll share how archaeological findings dating back to the pharaohs were discovered in these very gardens where you're walking.
You'll decipher symbols on St. Peter's Church, make a wish on the Wishing Bridge while overlooking the Mediterranean and see Andromeda's Rocks where Greek mythology intersects with Jaffa's ancient coastline. The suspended orange tree is another stop in this audio tour - a tree somehow still living and growing despite being completely uprooted.
The tour's almost-circular route brings you back near your starting point on Yefet Street, where the vibrant energy of Jaffa's Flea Market area beckons. But before exploring the antique shops and vintage stalls, you'll likely have worked up an appetite. Just steps from where the audio tour concludes sits Doctor Shakshuka, a Jaffa institution that has been serving its namesake dish since the 1990s. The restaurant occupies a historic building with stone arches and walls that echo Old Jaffa's architectural character.
Doctor Shakshuka specializes in what many consider Israel's ultimate comfort food - eggs poached in a spiced tomato sauce, traditionally served in the same cast-iron pan it was cooked in. The basic shakshuka features tomatoes, peppers, onions, garlic, and warming spices like cumin and paprika, but the restaurant offers numerous variations. The dish arrives bubbling hot with fresh bread for dipping - a complete meal that typically costs less than a main course at fancier Tel Aviv restaurants.
The combination works beautifully: an educational morning walk through one of the world's most ancient port cities, followed by a traditional meal in a neighborhood restaurant where locals still outnumber tourists. You'll leave with both historical context about Jaffa's role in biblical stories, Greek mythology, Crusader conquests, and even my own family's contribution to modernizing the city - plus the satisfied feeling of a hearty lunch.
You can make sure you've downloaded my Old Jaffa audio tour before you head out, or you can download it on the go if you're set with a data package allowing for uninterrupted internet access. There's a link in the show notes to purchase my audio tour -
Old Jaffa's Secrets: A Circular Tour from the Clock Tower to Yefet Street
If you have any questions - you’ll find all the ways to contact me on telaviv.tours (telaviv as one word, no space, no hyphen) and there’s a link in the show notes for your digital convenience.
Coming to Israel this December 2025? Go back to episode 37 to hear about the Hanukkah festivities that will light up the country from Sunday, December 14th, through Monday, December 22nd. Thinking ahead about the Jewish Festival of Lights, I thought it would be interesting to dive deeper into the fabric that makes up Israeli society today. How come you see so many Menorahs light up in the windows of Jerusalem, but not as much in Tel Aviv? The answer lies in the differences between three major groups of Israeli Jews - secular, religious and ultra-Orthodox.
Menorah lighting in the Jewish Quarter of the Old City of Jerusalem
In 2015, then-President of Israel, Reuven (Rubi) Rivlin, delivered what became known as "The Tribes Speech", providing a new terminology for societal fragmentation in Israel. Rivlin identified four major "tribes" within Israel - secular Jews, religious-Zionist Jews, ultra-Orthodox Jews and non-Jewish citizens. "We are dividing up into sectors that are drifting away from each other," Rivlin warned, describing separate education systems, neighborhoods and media consumption that create parallel societies within one nation. Understanding these divisions enriches any visit to Israel, but particularly during Hanukkah, when different Jewish communities celebrate the same holiday in dramatically different ways.
Secular Jews view Hanukkah primarily as a national holiday commemorating the Maccabee victory over the Greek Empire and the establishment of the Hasmonean Kingdom - the last instance of Jewish sovereignty before modern Israel's founding 77 years ago. This secular perspective focuses on military triumph and political independence rather than religious miracles. You'll see this interpretation, where historical narrative takes precedence over spiritual themes, reflected in special theatre shows and other family events. Plus, it’s a week off school that allows for extra time to go to malls and do some shopping - what you normally can’t do on other Jewish Holidays as the shops are closed.
Walk through Tel Aviv during Hanukkah and the tribal divisions become visible. You’ll spot some menorahs in windows, but the holiday feels optional - restaurants and businesses operate normally, some inviting their clients to light the menorah when it gets dark after sunset. Sufganiyot (oil-fried donuts) and latkes (potato pancakes) are sold at bakeries throughout the city to the enjoyment of many.
The religious-Zionist community, identifiable by the knitted yarmulke and modern dress, celebrates Hanukkah as both national and spiritual triumph. They attend synagogue services, organize community candle-lighting ceremonies in public squares and emphasize the religious significance of the Temple's rededication alongside the military victory. The importance of the holiday is not to have fun with family and eat donuts, but rather to rejoice in Jewish sovereignty and call for religious redemption that will happen when the Temple in Jerusalem is re-built. Walking through Tel Aviv you’ll see giant Menorahs in public squares, lighting up every evening. These public events are organized by different religious groups promoting what they call “Jewish values” or “Jewish tradition”. This is sometimes frowned upon by secular Tel Avivians.
The ultra-Orthodox, or Haredi community, presents the starkest contrast. In ultra-Orthodox neighborhoods, Hanukkah focuses entirely on religious miracles rather than military conquest. You’ll find them mostly in Jerusalem and almost exclusively Haredi cities across Israel, though their presence is also felt in certain enclaves within secular Tel Aviv. The men wear long black coats (all the time, even in the summer), married women cover their hair, and Yiddish often replaces Hebrew in daily conversation. Separate school systems teach completely different curricula - secular schools emphasize science and humanities, while Haredi schools focus almost exclusively on religious texts. During Hanukkah, Haredi families observe stringent traditional practices, lighting menorahs at precise times and avoiding the commercialized aspects that dominate secular celebrations.
It’s interesting to see these Jewish “tribes” coexist in Israel, occasionally intersecting but often remaining remarkably separate. You might attend a public menorah lighting at Dizengoff Square in Tel Aviv organized by the religious-Zionist community, then walk to a completely secular bar where Hanukkah goes unmentioned. The “Festigal” performance draws children to Tel Aviv from secular and religious families, while Haredi children attend entirely separate holiday programs in their communities. Traffic worsens throughout Hanukkah not because the holiday stops the city - unlike the High Holy Days, businesses remain open and public transportation operates normally - but because families from all tribes simultaneously use school vacation to travel. Gridlock is one of the few things in Israel that permeates the tribal boundaries.
Rubi Rivlin's essential insight was that these divisions shouldn't be feared but acknowledged and navigated. Travelling between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem during Hanukkah 2025, you'll witness this navigation in action - different communities lighting the same eight candles while attributing completely different meanings to the flames. Seems to be a shared experience, but is it really? - one might ask.
The Hasmonean Kingdom existed for 77 years, exactly matching modern Israel's current age. Hopefully, this parallel does not suggest Israeli society is nearing its expiration date, but rather that it is rising to the challenge of being a homeland to all tribes. This Hanukkah makes your December visit to Israel not just a holiday experience but a glimpse into the fundamental tensions shaping Israel.
Thanks for listening and you’ll hear from me again when the next episode comes out next week.Until then - I am Tel Aviv tour guide Tomer Chelouche, signing off and hoping to see you soon in Tel Aviv.
